Flawless execution, bold flavours, and genuine culinary joy
Let me start by saying that in all my years reviewing restaurants in Dubai, Taiko Dubai now sits very deservedly at the top of my favourites list.
There’s something about a Chef’s Table experience that feels like you’ve been let in on a secret. It’s intimate, personal, and full of those unexpected moments where food stops being just food and becomes something closer to storytelling. At Taiko Dubai, nestled in the Sofitel Dubai The Obelisk, this experience is nothing short of theatrical, where the script is written in wagyu, foie gras, and black garlic, and the lead actors are a duo of chefs who truly love what they do.
Taiko Dubai is the Middle Eastern outpost of Chef Schilo van Coevorden’s acclaimed Taiko Amsterdam. The restaurant leans into its self-described “dramatic ambiance,” though not in the way you might expect. There are no over-the-top theatrics – no gimmicks or unnecessary flourishes – just easy sophistication, moody lighting, and a setting that perfectly complements the real star of the show: the food.
And what a show it is.
Act One: The Opening Notes
The night begins with snacks, but don’t mistake these for anything resembling bar bites. A wagyu gyoza lands first. Crispy yet delicate, stuffed with unctuous beef and bursting with umami. It’s swiftly followed by an Akasha roll, a playful bite that hints at the kind of clever, considered pairings that define the evening. But the first real jaw-dropper? Miso black cod nigiri. It’s a perfect mouthful, a rich, buttery whisper of fish that disappears in an instant, leaving behind only the haunting memory of miso’s deep, savoury magic.
Act Two: A Study in Texture and Balance
Starters arrive in a carefully choreographed sequence, each dish exploring a different facet of flavour, texture, and contrast. Aburi wagyu maki roll with foie gras and sansho pepper where the foie gras melts like butter, while the pepper adds just enough bite to keep things interesting. It’s a dish that demands a slow, appreciative moment of silence. Next up, Wagyu carpaccio glistens on the plate, thinly sliced and adorned with precision. The chirashi bowl with pickled ikura delivers an oceanic burst that wakes up the palate, while the shisha wagyu nigiri leans into smoky, velvety luxury. Might not be for everyone, that last dish, but we absolutely loved it.
But in what feels like the moment the orchestra swells to a magnificent and dramatic moment, it’s the iced avocado that arrives in an imposing ice bowl that has us all rapt. Cool and creamy, offset with a touch of wasabi that offers a surprising counterpoint to the richness of the beef. It’s lush, it’s daring, it’s deeply satisfying.
Act Three: The Main Event
If the previous courses were an elegant ballet, the mains feel more like a powerful crescendo – deeper, bolder, and full of confident, precise execution.
First up: the robata A5 wagyu, presented in Taiko’s wagyu shawarma with black garlic. The nod to Middle Eastern flavours is subtle yet effective, the slow-roasted richness of the meat given an edge by the depth of black garlic. Wagyu ramen follows, featuring rye noodles swimming in a miso broth, crowned with a perfect soy tamago. It’s comforting yet refined – a dish that understands the joy of a perfect slurp.
Act Four: A Sweet Goodbye
Dessert can sometimes feel like an afterthought in a meal this grand, but not here. The Taiko Mandarin is a study in citrussy brightness, a refreshing contrast after the intense flavours of the mains. But the real showstopper? The Japanese doughnut. A deceptively simple name for what arrives as a warm, pillowy delight with just the right amount of chew. It’s the kind of bite that makes you close your eyes and sigh.
Curtain Call: A Toast to the Team
Throughout the evening, it’s clear that this isn’t just a meal – it’s an experience carefully curated by a team that loves food, loves their craft, and, most importantly, loves sharing it with others.
Chef Pedro Banzuzi presides over the evening like a maestro, overseeing every plate, explaining every dish, and taking guests through the journey of Taiko – both its history and its philosophy. His camaraderie with Executive Chef Russell Impiazzi is evident, the two creating a dining experience in seamless tandem, ensuring every moment feels special. The waitstaff move with effortless precision, refilling drinks before you notice your glass is empty, clearing plates without intrusion, and making the entire evening flow as smoothly as the perfectly chilled signature Aperol Spritz in hand. A really nice touch was having the hotel’s Executive Chef, Russel Impiazzi playing a supporting role to Chef Pedro without overshadowing his role.
Final Thoughts: A Restaurant Worth Returning To
It’s rare to leave a restaurant already planning your return, but Taiko Dubai is one of those places. The food is an adventure – bold without being excessive, playful without being gimmicky, and executed with the kind of precision that only comes from deep culinary understanding.
More than that, though, it’s a place that genuinely feels like it’s about joy. The joy of a perfectly seared bite of wagyu, the joy of a chef sharing the stories behind the dishes, the joy of a meal that doesn’t just feed you but stays with you long after you’ve left the table.
Yes, I was honoured to experience Taiko Dubai’s Chef’s Table as a guest of Unfiltered. But let’s be clear: this isn’t just a place I’d recommend to friends and family – and you, dear reader – it’s a place I’ll be visiting again. And again. And again.
