Take a sensory journey through storytelling, service, and flavours
Bull & Bear by Marc Hardiman offers a tasting menu with that little bit of ‘extra’ to entice Dubai’s jaded palates to its 18th-floor eyrie at DIFC’s Waldorf Astoria.
Chef Marc Hardiman draws deeply from his personal history, reimagining nostalgic dishes into fine dining masterpieces. Each plate tells a story.
Recently relaunched under his guidance, Bull & Bear seamlessly merges the opulence of its surroundings with the intimacy of a personal dining journey. I experienced their 10-course tasting menu, a showcase of innovation and storytelling reminiscent of Dubai’s underground dining scene and private supper clubs.
The Setting
From the moment you step into Bull & Bear, there’s a palpable sense of occasion. Towering double doors open to reveal a striking sculpture of the iconic bull and bear, symbols of the financial district where the restaurant resides. This grand entrance immediately establishes the venue as a standout in DIFC’s renowned dining scene.
Inside, the elegant interiors almost play second fiddle to the breathtaking views of Downtown Dubai and DIFC. The floor-to-ceiling windows create a dazzling backdrop, complementing the aspirations behind Marc’s culinary creations.
The Service
The service at Bull & Bear is meticulous. A highly trained team—including waiters, food runners, sommeliers, and even the chef himself—moves unobtrusively among diners. Glasses are topped up frequently, and every course is presented with precision.
The sommeliers, proudly displaying their WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust) qualifications, offer in-depth knowledge about wines and spirits. Their expertise ensures the perfect pairing for each of the 10 courses on the tasting menu, with drinks carefully chosen to enhance and complement the flavors of every dish. The waitstaff, equally well-versed, are prepared to answer any questions about the menu’s offerings.
One standout was Isabella, my waitress for the evening. She brought each dish to life with narratives about Marc’s childhood inspirations, blending storytelling and hospitality seamlessly. Her exceptional service elevated the meal, making it not just about the food but also about the stories behind it.
The Culinary Journey
The tasting menu is ambitious and deeply personal, offering diners a glimpse into Marc’s culinary past. The experience begins with the “Humble Potato,” a dish inspired by Marc’s family dining table. But this potato is anything but ordinary—it features a vibrant purple potato encased in a crisp exterior, delivering both comfort and sophistication. I found myself wishing for a larger portion of these heavenly orbs, despite knowing more delights awaited.
The next dish, “Loaded Chicken Wing,” carries a deceptively humble name. What arrives is a perfectly grilled, boneless wing adorned with a generous heap of black truffle shavings, adding luxury to what might otherwise be a simple dish.
As the courses progressed, the complexity and creativity of the dishes increased. Highlights included crab, oyster, beef tartare, and lobster—all beautifully executed. However, the showstopper for me wasn’t the Satsuma wagyu but its unexpected accompaniment: a single, divine potato chip. Layers of potato, fried in duck fat, pressed, and refried in tempura batter created a culinary masterpiece. As a self-proclaimed carb-lover, I can confidently say this was the best potato creation I’ve ever encountered.
Dessert courses followed, but I found myself unable to shake the memory of that potato chip. It lingered in my mind long after the meal, a testament to its brilliance.
Every dish was meticulously curated, with flavors that surprised and delighted. Yet, while the food was undeniably excellent, the deeply personal storytelling might not resonate with every diner. This approach feels more suited to special occasions than regular visits.
The Concept and Challenges
The storytelling-driven menu is innovative but raises questions about its longevity. First-time diners will likely be captivated by the narrative and craftsmanship, but the novelty might wear thin for repeat customers, particularly if the menu remains unchanged. This is where the à la carte offerings could play a more significant role. Currently, the limited à la carte menu risks leaving returning diners without sufficient variety.
Would I Return?
I left Bull & Bear with mixed feelings. The food was outstanding, the service impeccable, and the ambiance unforgettable. Isabella’s hospitality and the sommeliers’ expertise made this one of the most well-orchestrated dining experiences I’ve had in Dubai.
However, the storytelling concept, while engaging, might not appeal to everyone or encourage frequent visits. For a one-time celebration or special occasion, Bull & Bear is a stellar choice. For regular dining, the current format might feel too rigid. I would return, but likely for the à la carte menu or to enjoy the atmosphere without committing to the full tasting experience.
Final Thoughts
Bull & Bear is a bold addition to Dubai’s dining scene, offering an experience that goes beyond food. It celebrates storytelling, flavors, and impeccable service, all set against the glittering backdrop of DIFC. For those seeking an unforgettable evening, it’s a worthy (albeit pricey) choice. However, balancing the storytelling concept with repeatability will be crucial for long-term success.
Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or indulging in a culinary journey, Bull & Bear deserves a spot on your dining list—if only to experience its innovative approach once.
Please visit the links for the omnivore and herbivore menus.
