Categories: F&BReview

Locked, Stocked and a Fully Smoked Barrel

Exclusive, theatrical, and unforgettable

Nestled atop the St. Regis hotel in Dubai lies a hidden gem: Lena, by Michelin-starred Chef Dani García. But the true marvel isn’t the main restaurant; it’s the clandestine culinary haven known as The Smoked Room deep within Lena. With space for only 14 diners, each pampered by their own dedicated waiter, stepping into The Smoked Room feels like being let in on an exclusive secret.

Upon arrival, we are warmly welcomed by the charismatic Ugo Calia, who guides us to our seats. The ambiance is refined yet cozy, with leather chairs, a crackling wood fire, and glass-fronted seafood and meat fridges hinting at the culinary delights to come. The attention to detail is evident at every turn, from the exquisite cutlery that changes with each course to the impeccable service.

Chef Jesus Lobato and Sous Chef Lorenzo Maistri, along with their team, orchestrate a culinary symphony, preparing the first of sixteen courses. Our dedicated waiter, Sanjay Suderson from Kerala, a foodie himself, guides us through each dish, sharing his extensive knowledge of the evening’s ingredients and enhancing our appreciation of each bite.

The journey begins with homemade bread accompanied by heady truffle butter, setting the stage for what was to come. Next up, Amaebi (trout) from Hokkaido, paired with brown butter and smoked peppers, is a revelation. The delicate flavors of the Amaebi, accented by lemony yuzu, delivers a spectacular and unexpected joy to the palate.

Each subsequent dish is a celebration of theatrics, served in the most exquisite tableware. But it isn’t just about presentation; each dish is served with a story, an origin, a concept, elevating it to more than just food—it truly is an experience.

For those who prefer, the menu offers a choice of pairing with grape, expertly curated by wine connoisseur Ugo, or a tea pairing, adding another layer of sophistication to the evening.

As the savory part of the evening draws to a close, we are ushered into another hidden room for the sweet finale. A tiered wooden box presented an array of luscious desserts created by the chefs, each a masterpiece in its own right.

A deep sense of wellbeing washes over us as the evening winds down. It is a rare and unique food experience, leaving us with memories to cherish. Before leaving, we are presented with a box of divine chocolates and a printed copy of the menu, a thoughtful gesture that adds to the overall experience.

With prices starting at AED 1,500 per person, The Smoked Room is not just a meal; it’s an unforgettable journey for the senses. We’ll definitely be returning again and again, eager to indulge in this culinary adventure once more.

Sid Marlowe

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